tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72478398577824494372024-02-20T12:58:38.510-05:00Sew WhatJust fabric and thread that's all I need ...and pins ...and scissors ...and my Pfaff ...and ...time ...and patterns ...and chalk...Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.comBlogger113125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-64475023860410004432014-03-25T23:13:00.001-04:002014-03-25T23:13:45.958-04:00Production vs Design and UFOs<div style="text-align: justify;">
If you are like me, the pile of unfinished objects - UFOs - in your sewing room bugs you from time to time. You think, I really should finish that last thing before I start yet another project. And if you are like me, you crave new challenges and find it a chore to finish something else once new inspiration comes along. Earlier this week, I was having coffee with my husband in the morning, as we usually do before going to work and he was telling me about a new approach he was taking to designing a circuit board with a technician in the lab. The technician wasn't entirely bought in to this new approach and mentioned he would feel better if the work was being done on someboy ELSE's computer. He didn't want his name associated with the work. My husband was puzzled by this. I started thinking about the difference between working in a production environment versus a design environment. In design, we try many different things before we settle on the thing that will work best. In production, it is different. We may streamline workflows and develop methodologies which save time and money, but we do not invent. There really isn't a lot of abandonment. We finish what we start. Well, my sewing room is definately a design environment. I go there to create, to play, to learn, to enjoy the process of sewing. The resulting garment is the cherry on top. I am recalibrating my brain and losing the guilt of not finishing things. It is not a waste of time or money if I enjoy the process and learn from it. This is my new mantra. It's okay to let it go!</div>
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In other news, I did a quiet launch of <a href="http://fancypantspatterns.com/shop" target="_blank">FANCYPANTS Patterns</a>. If you happen to see it, let me know what you think. I am super excited to see it on line!</div>
Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-59400350855575380392013-06-27T10:27:00.001-04:002013-06-27T10:32:59.556-04:00Paris, Here I come!I am so excited to be going to Paris this summer! I have never been to Europe. I hope to find some beautiful fabric or trim or buttons and see couture dresses and jackets and gowns. Any advice from my sewing friends about where to go, what to see, what to bring, what to buy, etc. would be so welcome. I am a travel rookie. <br/><br/><div class="separator"style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVxdAYSU686hDLCsiwdH3mGeO9e7_q75BJmOjztlxvhcW-2mbLRIR6GODIqVymxiSljTzF47Hqa5A0PHfZis8NNGKzUjCO9lLf7ikVAr9V92Fi8JuOjMTjHhuYb2X37xGGHdJscZomA9H/s640/blogger-image--1583038258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVxdAYSU686hDLCsiwdH3mGeO9e7_q75BJmOjztlxvhcW-2mbLRIR6GODIqVymxiSljTzF47Hqa5A0PHfZis8NNGKzUjCO9lLf7ikVAr9V92Fi8JuOjMTjHhuYb2X37xGGHdJscZomA9H/s640/blogger-image--1583038258.jpg" /></a></div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-3443355991425490432013-06-17T19:20:00.000-04:002013-06-18T06:38:34.114-04:00V1183 and my 30 year reunion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YQjzNQ8giWw/Ub5uRoVjJnI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/kqaZvlY8Ef8/s1600/13+-+2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YQjzNQ8giWw/Ub5uRoVjJnI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/kqaZvlY8Ef8/s640/13+-+2" width="480" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h7vynfK-WXU/Ub5uRghr1rI/AAAAAAAAAUI/-EBY6DRRMVM/s1600/13+-+3" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h7vynfK-WXU/Ub5uRghr1rI/AAAAAAAAAUI/-EBY6DRRMVM/s640/13+-+3" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This weekend was my 30 year high school reunion. The dress is my version of Kay Unger's V1183. I used stretch cotton poplin from JoAnn's. The center back seam is matched below the waist. I hand stitched it with invisible thread. My husband was so proud of me, he made it a point to announce to everyone at the after party (there were seven of us) that I made my dress. What a guy! Isn't he cute?</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gwhf2HinmMw/Ub5uRr56f4I/AAAAAAAAAUo/BUscggtFbLw/s1600/13+-+6" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gwhf2HinmMw/Ub5uRr56f4I/AAAAAAAAAUo/BUscggtFbLw/s640/13+-+6" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Wonderful Husband</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kcbdaBpvSo/Ub5uRsC71rI/AAAAAAAAAUg/ksoHhPoceJk/s1600/13+-+1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kcbdaBpvSo/Ub5uRsC71rI/AAAAAAAAAUg/ksoHhPoceJk/s640/13+-+1" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yearbook Photo from 1983</td></tr>
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<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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<div style="clear: both;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-54049784017646845892013-05-30T18:30:00.000-04:002013-05-30T18:30:50.164-04:00All better now<div class="mobile-photo">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgO8pIICKdycRHH0SLZRWwAbf1aVaKlmXCCgxA1yQt6ZxmbI1V9vk8g8_G4SuwEOVA2tIn-SUdrbdBuiQeZ3X0cAId0PQ05xcvcuwzb4gUvEDRFnCWSAlz5EnjAHkM39D8Weuyt7wZHFS/s1600/photo-790351.PNG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5875985094216099890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgO8pIICKdycRHH0SLZRWwAbf1aVaKlmXCCgxA1yQt6ZxmbI1V9vk8g8_G4SuwEOVA2tIn-SUdrbdBuiQeZ3X0cAId0PQ05xcvcuwzb4gUvEDRFnCWSAlz5EnjAHkM39D8Weuyt7wZHFS/s1600/photo-790351.PNG" /></a></div>
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I recut the the off grain side. Here it is. Honestly, it was a chore to do. I melted it with my iron and had to clean my iron and recut it yet again. By the time I got it sewed together, I was so sick of it that I wasn't even going to photograph it.<br />
I mentioned I have a class reunion coming up, right? Well I decided to sew a sleeveless Kay Unger design in a stretch cotton I found at JoAnn's. Here is the pattern.<br />
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<a href="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100107/V1183-2/web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100107/V1183-2/web.jpg" /></a></div>
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I modified a custom princess dress pattern to add the midriff. You can see that I have more coverage at the front and back armscye. I also omitted the back vent and lengthened the skirt. In front, I lengthened the waist darts to accommodate my (ahem) athletic thighs.</div>
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<a href="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/20101212-1/web.jpg?ver=12917323580001" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/20101212-1/web.jpg?ver=12917323580001" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/20101212-2/web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/20101212-2/web.jpg" /></a></div>
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This is the fabric I am using:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LygIwC6mBBNuILLWvv8U69t1E3cjuWszDt3OkXWTZSfBUK0B0Gy_Mkqvwn2pAcpLN7Wo3ZkytncCxaCQV7rh9vbdZps2rGn5eEQahWoMKtOAHlO03rA9bsYBvAqLYSsT1dRimXagtq43/s1600/IMG_4943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LygIwC6mBBNuILLWvv8U69t1E3cjuWszDt3OkXWTZSfBUK0B0Gy_Mkqvwn2pAcpLN7Wo3ZkytncCxaCQV7rh9vbdZps2rGn5eEQahWoMKtOAHlO03rA9bsYBvAqLYSsT1dRimXagtq43/s640/IMG_4943.jpg" width="640" /></a>Here are some of the pieces cut and ready to sew:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0gvy94bB2Y4cDsbNmxRo2-wLMKXShRgKjXuwOIP3lK9DErfMzm3j59gSOVl7-oujK5tyaPRtUEtQbkN0rRkMr0phNJkuGN2AcYd7MkqIL5Vwt9QDfowNu5Y2dKpN9nzepp0jt2pAxisq/s1600/IMG_0001_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg0gvy94bB2Y4cDsbNmxRo2-wLMKXShRgKjXuwOIP3lK9DErfMzm3j59gSOVl7-oujK5tyaPRtUEtQbkN0rRkMr0phNJkuGN2AcYd7MkqIL5Vwt9QDfowNu5Y2dKpN9nzepp0jt2pAxisq/s640/IMG_0001_2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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In other news, I finished my recent contract and have turned my attention back to pattern drafting and grading. I couldn't be happier. I only have a couple of patterns completed, but soon, I will do a quiet launch of my website. Soon...</div>
Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-5622984620605492492013-03-08T17:15:00.000-05:002013-03-08T17:15:07.819-05:00So... I sewed. A little.<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /> --> <div style="clear:both;"></div>I have been crazy busy this last month. I have had to put my pattern company plans on hold. I am doing some contract work helping a company meet a deadline in mid April and another in late May. That means almost all of my productive time is going to fulfill my contract and I am too tired to grade patterns or blog or sew. I did manage to draft a pattern for a surplice sleeveless shell, but in my haste, I cut the front left on the wrong grain. I have enough fabric to cut another left front. I wish I had enough time to fix it! Here is a picture. We'll call this one "BEFORE". Stay tuned for the "AFTER"...<img
id="2013030801" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/blogger/sewWhat2013030801.jpg"
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<div style="clear: both;">My iPhone has been beeping all day. My classmates are all abuzz about our upcoming 30 year reunion. I can hardly believe it has been thirty years. Of course I am excited to see everyone again, but I can't stop thinking, "What am I going to wear???" I sew. I am about to release a pattern line. I HAVE to make something fabulous, right? Here is what I wore to my 20 year reunion (which, by the way, does NOT seem like it was ten years ago). I did make it myself. I think it was a bit too dressy compared to what my friends were wearing.</div><br />
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style="clear: both;">I am thinking about making a knee length dress this time. The reunion is in late June. The days will be long. I like the idea of a sleeveless design. What do you think of these? I didn't make any of them, but I could copy the design and draft my own pattern. These are all silk, but I am thinking of using a lightweight wool crepe. The color I have in mind is a deep sapphire blue. If I go with the third one, I would shorten the hem to the knee. The images expand when clicked. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img
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style="height: 225px;" /></div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-8792800250467113262013-02-05T15:29:00.000-05:002013-02-05T15:29:21.702-05:00Pinstriped Menswear - Not Just For Men!<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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I saw a dress on a Google Image search and I had to have it. So I challenged myself to draft a custom pattern. I like the white buttons better. What do you think? I would add it to my pattern line but it might be difficult for some to custom fit.</div><br />
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Hello World!<br />
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I have been quiet for many months, but I have not forgotten you. As a matter of fact, you have been on my mind more than ever. I read your blogs and your comments with great interest. You see, I have been learning about pattern making, grading, technical writing, fashion illustration, cad drawing, and running a small business. Can you guess why?<br />
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Did you guess that I decided to start an independent pattern company? If you did, you are correct! At first, I wanted to wait until I had a full collection of patterns to offer, but I am too excited to delay any longer. Soon, I will release my first patterns. Here are a few sneak preview illustrations:<br />
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</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-68976107321610811782011-06-20T09:52:00.000-04:002012-06-29T16:27:07.957-04:00Layered Raw Edge Letters<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /><div style="clear:both;">I finally set up my Pfaff Creative Vision to do embroidery. Honestly, I don't know why I waited so long. I had forgotten how much fun it is to watch as it stitches! My last machine was a Husqvarna Viking D1. I traded it in for the Pfaff after sewing and embroidering with one in a class at the Sewing and Quilting Expo a few years ago. I fell in love with the precise positioning feature. I had made a few projects which used multiple hoopings before and I did a decent job getting the motifs where I wanted them, but it was nearly impossible to get them absolutely exact which kind of bummed me out. All I could think of was all the cool things I could embroider IF ONLY I could get the designs to line up perfectly. So you can see how I was immediately sold on the Creative Vision. Well that was years ago and I have embroidered a big fat nothing with the machine. Zilch.<p>I love the way embroidery can take clothing to another level, but I cannot articulate exactly how to get that effect myself. I think the design needs to seem like it is integrated into the garment, and not slapped on as an afterthought. This shirt I embroidered last week is an example of what I mean. Although the letters themselves look great and they are lined up perfectly, to me, it looks like the embroidery was an afterthought. Don't get me wrong, I like the way the shirt looks. But the embroidery does not take it to that other level and I would not expect lettering to do that in any case. I guess now that I have "broken the seal" on my embroidery attachment, I am anxious to do more embroidery. How do I select a design and integrate it into a garment?</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-63043744599391463282011-06-18T18:12:00.000-04:002011-06-18T18:12:55.394-04:00New Hair Color!<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7s1A1w-mSz_EFjdm929Gu48qlwMXF0sqSPaR-qfgprRbhVu4Bb88L_A1qpkJxwhwf8stRzOwLI0m73Ic9m22YZqoykSBJmY3pUW2X8eFW_qIx7SuWUX53zc2f7_2GnHQRJ1mZs7yCe5P/s1600/photo+1-794044.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7s1A1w-mSz_EFjdm929Gu48qlwMXF0sqSPaR-qfgprRbhVu4Bb88L_A1qpkJxwhwf8stRzOwLI0m73Ic9m22YZqoykSBJmY3pUW2X8eFW_qIx7SuWUX53zc2f7_2GnHQRJ1mZs7yCe5P/s320/photo+1-794044.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619682937864018274" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjszui7yb06MwXhXlFsedp_Fun6_FQxsIG3szouDSec4rqZE6EyekZFceW05DFQ99eYauPMLYB4eZn3Q76HhwqB2GWW_Ck8hTEPAxjbdoRe9y-gAXS9rtKgL-kwrS95OKa97asEn3noJYU-/s1600/photo+3-797407.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjszui7yb06MwXhXlFsedp_Fun6_FQxsIG3szouDSec4rqZE6EyekZFceW05DFQ99eYauPMLYB4eZn3Q76HhwqB2GWW_Ck8hTEPAxjbdoRe9y-gAXS9rtKgL-kwrS95OKa97asEn3noJYU-/s320/photo+3-797407.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619682949814422802" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZ-dCu0qttZTW0k-poNp-iwPRncRjkAIbIkde_7j6b3CwYPIWmWJzVkdZHWnoipT456u_mnOlw5-OqZG8S72RmxQovYT5xLLepIsXXmtFFuGM3RHysxSWxDuZFySJYUVy613BLKiTUNyC/s1600/photo+2-700994.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZ-dCu0qttZTW0k-poNp-iwPRncRjkAIbIkde_7j6b3CwYPIWmWJzVkdZHWnoipT456u_mnOlw5-OqZG8S72RmxQovYT5xLLepIsXXmtFFuGM3RHysxSWxDuZFySJYUVy613BLKiTUNyC/s320/photo+2-700994.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619682966382439234" /></a></p>I have been deliberating for a year. I finally bit the bullet and got a two tone hair color. I think I need a little time to get used to it. Most things need a while to grow on me lately. I must be getting old! My daughter says the hair makes me look younger. I'm all for that! Now all I need is to make some new clothes to go with my new hair.Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-6915511550651002612011-06-17T14:13:00.000-04:002012-06-29T16:30:09.103-04:00Keeping It Simple<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /><div style="clear:both;"></div>How do you keep track of your fabric stash? I love to come up with elaborate systems of organizing my things - systems which are sometimes impractical for me to follow. Currently, I have three methods of cataloging my fabrics. The simplest is a few digital photographs of my fabric armoire, and cupboards with the doors open. I keep the pictures on my iPhone so I will have them available to review while I am out shopping. Next, I have a page on my blog with snapshots or downloaded images of fabrics. I can pull the blog page up on my iPhone any time I have cell service. My latest inspiration involves actual fabric swatches. After cutting apart my Vogue Fabrics Swatch sheets so I could play "mix and match" with them, I had a wonderful idea to cut swatches of my own fabrics - including those I have already used. I made a spreadsheet file in a program called Numbers. Numbers is like a very pared down version of excel which allows quick and easy creation of charts and tables. It works on Mac OS devices. I used my iPad while watching TV with my husband. The result was a quick template which has 8 rectangles and a few lines of text per rectangle. I cut the rectangles apart with a big paper cutter and stapled swatches of my fabrics to the little paper cards. Under each fabric swatch, I have listed the fiber content, width, design repeat, yardage or finished item, and any special notes. I use these fabric swatches to plan projects and coordinate fabrics. What do you do to keep track of your stash?Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-12490294940870294072011-04-11T11:04:00.001-04:002012-06-29T16:36:03.484-04:00Mommy and Me<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /> <div style="clear:both;">I interrupted my jacket project to make a little skirt for spring. My daughter loved it and said she wished she had one just like it. So I made one for her with the left over fabric. My first Mommy and Me sewing!<p>In other news, I have been busy learning fashion design! I have been working with some expensive Adobe software learning how to draw fashion flats and illustrations. I have been learning about flat pattern drafting and dart manipulation as well as pattern grading. All of this learning is fueling my passion for sewing in a way that has my head buzzing with a menagerie of creative ideas. When I figure out how to put it all together, I will have more to share.</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-13100460794297028782011-03-23T10:19:00.000-04:002012-06-29T16:36:48.216-04:00What to do with this?<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript">
</script> <img class="PopBoxImageSmall" id="2011032301" onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" pbcaption="" pbpoptext="" pbshowcaption="true" pbshowpopbar="false" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100158/photo%2031300834411426/web.jpg" style="width: 150px; height:200px;" /><img class="PopBoxImageSmall" id="2011032302" onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" pbcaption="" pbpoptext="" pbshowcaption="true" pbshowpopbar="false" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100158/photo%2011300834413071/web.jpg" style="width: 150px; height:200px;" /><img class="PopBoxImageSmall" id="2011032303" onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" pbcaption="" pbpoptext="" pbshowcaption="true" pbshowpopbar="false" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100158/photo%2021300834412381/web.jpg" style="width: 150px; height:200px;" /><div style="clear: both;">Fashionistas help!! This jacket needs something. I am glad I made this mock-up. I am not diggin' the look on me. It looks like it needs to be a little longer. I had an idea to add a zip on peplum, but I really like the idea of a cropped jacket. Maybe it just isn't fitted enough? Should I take a little ease out of the side seams and see if I like it? Or maybe tack some fabric along the bottom edge and see if the longer length helps? The back neckline is too low and too scooped as well. I feel my mojo slipping... I would rather be sewing spring dresses, but I don't want another UFO hanging around my sewing room. The pictures are cell phone pictures and not the best, but if you click them, they get bigger. What should I do with this?</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-60879326609586612362011-03-21T00:10:00.000-04:002012-09-21T11:49:46.481-04:00Tweed Zipper Jacket Mock-up<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript">
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /--> Thanks to all who helped me choose which jacket to sew next. I started work on the <a target="_blank" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLiGO-v_asoWpm_g2QMLn7Xu_sVl0VvaDQ3COM0sRiftY3wq55lVxovybXpEjwOgFeAwuKoa5G1RLHwe7MF3J9OMRHafvRBIeZ8SUqJKaAkevQsft8A38-EI93EUyRSOfLtuP2GGytctp/s1600/photo+1-702507.JPG" rel="imgtip[2011022801]">zippered jacket</a> this weekend. I decided to create my own pattern. First, I had to think about the fabric and the fit to determine what to do with the bust darts. The tweed is a loose weave with horizontal stripes of color and sequins, so I wanted a simple design. I like something with waist definition, so I decided on waist darts for shaping. I have a jacket pattern which fits me very well, but it has princess seams, so I needed to do some pattern manipulation. <div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022801" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-01/web.jpg?ver=12989045670001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">I began with the <a href="#" rel="imgtip[2011022802]">BML belted jacket pattern</a> which I used for <a href="#" rel="imgtip[2011022803]">this jacket</a>. I cropped the pattern at the waist and taped the side front to the front along the upper part of the princess seam. Then I covered the pieces with tracing paper.</div><div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022802" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-02/web.jpg?ver=12989046470001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">I traced the two pieces as one, converting the princess seam to a waist dart. I also redrew the neckline, using my french curve. For this pattern, I omitted the seam allowances. I find it easier to work with patterns when there are no seam allowances. I will add the seam allowances when I cut the fabric.</div><div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022803" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-03/web.jpg?ver=12989047590001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">Here is what the half front looks like.</div><div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022804" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-05/web.jpg?ver=12989053120001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">The jacket will have an asymmetrical front closure, so I will need to start with a full front pattern piece which I will later cut in two to make a left and a right side. Here I have folded the tracing paper along the center front line and traced the rest of the jacket front onto the folded tracing paper. I divided it by extending one of the dart legs up to the shoulder seam. (I later changed this when I determined where I wanted my neck opening.)</div><div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022805" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-06/web.jpg?ver=12989057010001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">Next, I cut the new pattern pieces out, cutting the left and right apart along the dart leg and its extension.</div><div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022806" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-07/web.jpg?ver=12989057580001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">Here are the two pieces. When I wear the jacket, I would like the zipper to appear to anyone who sees it to go from the top left toward the bottom right. I find that diagonal line to be more appealing than one which goes from top right toward bottom left. That means that from the wearer's point of reference, the zipper will be on the right hand side. Therefore, the larger front piece will be the FRONT LEFT. I always find this confusing and even though I may mark a pattern, I never trust it and I will always double check as I cut. I have learned not to bother marking the pieces. (Does anyone else do this? - second guess yourself to death?? I can't tell you how many pattern pieces I have with markings that are crossed out, changed, crossed out yet again, and changed back to the original markings. I drive myself crazy.)</div><div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022807" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-08/web.jpg?ver=12989059310001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">Here is where I decided on the neckline and the collar. I went back and forth in my mind over having a wider neckline as in my drawing, or a smaller one. I opted for the smaller one with more coverage as I am always cold, and it will look nicer when layered. I drew a dotted line to indicate where the edge of the collar will fall. At this point, I noticed the front opening will not intersect the neckline. That needs to be fixed.</div><div style="clear:both;"><img
id="2011022808" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100077/Zippered%20Jacket-09/web.jpg?ver=12989060800001" style="width:584px;" class="PopBoxImageSmall"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both;">Here, I taped the fronts together and redrew the opening. I am not convinced I like it as much as my original idea with the wider neckline. Also, that diagonal line I had in my mind for the zipper is not going to work out. I think I need to let this marinate a little before I cut any fabric... I may redo it and go with my <a target="_blank" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLiGO-v_asoWpm_g2QMLn7Xu_sVl0VvaDQ3COM0sRiftY3wq55lVxovybXpEjwOgFeAwuKoa5G1RLHwe7MF3J9OMRHafvRBIeZ8SUqJKaAkevQsft8A38-EI93EUyRSOfLtuP2GGytctp/s1600/photo+1-702507.JPG" rel="imgtip[2011022801]">original sketch.</a> </div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-36496896725138607902011-02-23T12:53:00.000-05:002012-06-29T16:44:25.064-04:0050s Revival and Vintage Patterns<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /> <div style="clear:both;">Is anyone else totally digging the full skirt look? Everything I am wearing here is purchased. I have no trouble fitting into RTW in this style, so I am OF COURSE thinking I might need to do very little adjusting of patterns in this style. I have not bought a pattern in a long time. I am wondering if vintage is the way to go here, or should I opt for more modern patterns with vintage inspiration? I am fairly confident with sewing patterns which have little or no instruction. I know there are many of you out there in the bloggosphere who have taken a turn with a vintage pattern or two. What are the differences between vintage and modern patterns?</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-67807286711438612162011-02-18T12:01:00.000-05:002011-02-18T12:01:06.429-05:00Which Jacket is Next?<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><!--
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<img
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /><div style="clear:both;">I don't know about anyone else, but I can't watch TV with my husband without also doing something sewing related at the same time. I am either surfing the web to satisfy my voracious hunger for fashion images and sewing blogs or I am flipping through BURDA Style or Threads Magazine or like last night, planning what I want to sew. I bought this beautiful sequined Linton Tweed a while ago and I have been reluctant to sew it. My first idea was a cropped Chanel inspired jacket, but I was only lukewarm on the idea. I made a mock up and that is as far as I got with it. Then I got an idea to make a zippered jacket with a big fold-over collar trimmed with fringe. The other drawing was inspired by a hole in my wardrobe. I need a longer black jacket. I bought a fabulous cut of cashmere and it would be perfect for channel-stitching. Maybe I'll even add little black seed beads at the neckline. I have to make and test patterns, but I think I can use Bernina My Label software to draft something close for starters. Then I will make edits to add the style elements I want. I'll post all the details as I go. <p>But here is the real dilemma. Which one should I do first???</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-27120284775954714912011-02-17T09:06:00.000-05:002011-02-17T09:06:06.999-05:00More Color<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><img
id="2011021701" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAvE1m_Y8ITrGPZ4LoG4GMUPErDqToED_VaNI6CLAswc63zR2RQ11yefSxm0l_lV95SYCoL55cTGq0nwp5YhBryb5WPr_4fIRd6Sf2wpIEXKNV9oqRAygI2xI95ALTdESgVSb5ACC_0zTI/s1600/PerfectPhoto_image-788838.jpg"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /><div style="clear:both;">So while I am so ready for spring, it is in fact still winter and here in New England the snow banks are piled over my head in most places. That means I need tights if I want to wear a dress. These are actually ski underclothes, but shhhhhh. Don't tell anyone. How do you like my new yellow bag? I got it at The Limited.</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-10923679968861439152011-02-15T13:33:00.002-05:002011-02-15T13:48:08.381-05:00Adding Color to my Wardrobe<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><img
id="2011021501" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfzXk-izSopX44KRqULoQVEQS2UwpMJPs5UBAyyTgsYsfnYSut_jRIxilWPL7nodh1kBe7ZCET1WQY7Tu3IAuFxzpCddoAkl7PD4fiTaWV_HdNukdqNd7ZZSwPeyb54SMe8AcOaunCEa3r/s1600/photo-735831.JPG"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /><div style="clear:both;">I normally do not wear this many colors together. My inclination would be to wear a black jacket instead of the blue cardigan, but I am trying to add more color to my wardrobe. I just love the raspberry wool fabric I used for this skirt. The pattern is the Bernina My Label basic skirt. The top is Cache - just got it this weekend. The cardigan is Ann Taylor 2009. <br>I am so ready for spring. I bought sandals and a yellow bag this weekend as well. I am rethinking my sewing queue. I want to have more color and pattern. Do you think the design lines need to be simpler as the color and pattern get bolder? I am trying to wrap my brain around a more contemporary style.</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-44370305182901043472011-02-03T13:51:00.000-05:002012-06-29T16:49:36.635-04:00Bernina My Label Princess Dress - Another Wearable Muslin!<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><img
id="2011020301" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/BML%20Princess%20Dress%20Mock%20Up/web.jpg?ver=12967436230001"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /><div style="clear:both,">Look at this fantastic fit! I am blown away!! This is a mock up of the Bernina My Label Princess Dress without sleeves. Another wearable muslin. Since I started using this program six months ago, the only garments I have made that I do not wear are the two qualification muslins I made - because I used actual muslin and marked the waistline. I wasn't sure about this one - the princess dress - since it is so fitted. I didn't want to take any chances so I used this rayon print from my stash to test the fit before cutting into the cashmere I want to use. I widened the hem circumference. The pattern is for a pegged dress, but I made it straight so I can redraft the side seams to my liking. I made two changes to the style measurements. I increased the hip to equal my hip at crotch measurement because that is my largest hip measurement. I also increased the waist to hip measurement and made it equal to my waist to crotch measurement. I did not increase the hem circumference with the software. I did that when I cut the pieces by changing the side seams so they were parallel to the grainline from the widest part of the hip (at crotch level) down to the hem. My original plan was to pin a nice slightly pegged side seam and measure it with a French curve. Then I could make a side seam template for future use. But I decided not to bother since I will probably want to customize the side seams on a garment by garment basis. And I think I prefer more of an A line on my body anyhow, so it wouldn't be necessary to make a template. Here is the back. What do you think? More of an A line???</div><div style="clear:both,"><img
id="2011020302" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/BML%20Princess%20Dress%20Mock-Up%20Back/web.jpg?ver=12967580080001"
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div>Here are the new Free MARFY Patterns included with the 2011/2012 catalog. There is a dress, a cardigan, two skirts, and four blouses. The cardigan is loose fitting and has 3/4 sleeves with contrast bands and a flounced double collar. The dress is fitted with armscye princess seams, empire waistline, lace bodice, and ballet neckline. It is sleeveless with extended shoulders, and a gored skirt which is fitted through the hip and slightly flared to the hem which lands just below the knee. Skirt 0467 is a straight, above knee length skirt with center front seam and slit. Skirt 0460 is an A line, mid knee length skirt with a deep contrast band at the hem. Blouse 2467 is fitted with shaped dart legs extending to the high hip length hem. It has a scooped neckline with a partial double collar and buttons at the center front. The sleeves are full length, gathered, set in sleeves with a slight flare which is gathered to the cuffs. Blouse 2461 is semi-fitted. The dartless, high hip length blouse is gathered to a front yoke. It has contrast bands at the V neckline/center front opening and sleeve bands. The sleeves are 3/4 length with fullness gathered to the contrast bands. Blouse 2483 is fitted with a contrast band at the high waistline. It is high hip length with cut out shoulders and 3/4 length gathered sleeves and a gathered neckline. Because of the fitted waist, there is either a side opening or a center back opening. Blouse 2484 is dartless and semi fitted with short sleeves and a deep, flounced, buttoned, V neckline. The sleeves and the neckline are finished with contrast binding. My first response to the patterns was SNOOOOOOOZE. But after taking the time to really consider them, I think I understand why MARFY chose this bunch. These patterns are great basics with nice details. They do not have complicated lines and would not be difficult to fit. After fitting one of the free patterns, it would be easy to determine what size to order if we want something more complicated. There are offerings for both woven and knit blouses, and both a mid weight and light weight woven skirt. The cardigan would work for many different fabrics as well. And the dress is fitted which really helps when trying to figure out what typical alterations might be necessary for other fitted MARFY designs. And you can't beat the price!!! Eight free patterns! Those of us who resolved not to buy so many patterns this year, can you hear me now???? Technically, these don't count <wink! _moz-userdefined="" wink!=""> </wink!>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-22707379819785890802011-01-07T11:18:00.001-05:002012-06-29T16:52:12.313-04:00Some Things Just Need A Little Time...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/20110107/web.jpg?ver=12944139900001" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="1024" width="764" src="http://fancypantspatterns.com/_gallery/100090/20110107/web.jpg?ver=12944139900001" /></a></div>Although I wish this jacket had turned out nicer, I guess it isn't so bad afterall. I like the way the fabrics coordinate with the silk shell I made to go with it. Both items were made with redesigned BML patterns. I have a pair of <a href="http://debramartin.blogspot.com/2010/08/bernina-my-label-first-outfit.html" target="_blank">pants</a> made from the same fabric I used for the olive colored piping and I am in the process of making a pair of pants from the same fabric I used for the binding, so I will have lots of options to make outfits with this jacket. I am in the process of rearranging my sewing room, and my dining room is now a disaster, but in time, it will also be better.Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-47284541300628225282011-01-04T13:15:00.000-05:002012-06-29T16:53:54.439-04:00Bernina My Label Basic Skirt<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script><img
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /><div style="clear:both,">I did a little sewing over the weekend. In an effort to keep my sewing enjoyable, I made a decision to include some simple projects in my sewing queue. I made this skirt in record time - for me anyway. I could not be happier with it! The fabric is a gorgeous raspberry wool from my stash which I have been afraid to cut until recently. With all the success I have had with Bernina My Label, I finally have the confidence to work with some of the better fabrics I have collected. The only change I made to the pattern was to lengthen the skirt an inch and a half. It is described as a 22 inch knee length basic skirt, but the finished length is not based on the model's waist to knee measurement. It is 22 inches no matter what the model measures. I also added an extra inch of wearing ease from the hip down to the hem. I used one inch side seam allowances and basted the skirt together at the drafted seamlines and the fit was perfect, but I wanted a little extra room, so I stitched the side seams a quarter inch out from the basting, tapering to nothing from the waist to the hip.</div><div style="clear:both,"><img
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" /></div><div style="clear:both,">For the facing, I used a really nice knit elastic which I bought from JoAnn's a few years ago. This stuff is absolutely perfect for any fabric like medium weight wool or Sophia knit. When you see it, buy the whole roll. It is gold! It gives a nice, professional finish and looks and feels great when worn. I did not line the skirt. I finished the seam allowances with hug snug rayon using a binder attachment foot. I have to say I love this finishing technique. It doesn't add bulk and it looks pretty. For the finish on the kick pleat, I used the selvage. I just cut the pattern pieces so that the edge of the kick pleat was on the selvage. My plan is working. This skirt was easy to make. The wool fabric sews like a dream. The finishing techniques weren't complicated or difficult. And most important, the pattern really fits me! I think I will continue to include quick and easy projects in my sewing plans. Happy Sewing All!!</div>Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7247839857782449437.post-70730069225019343202010-12-27T22:15:00.000-05:002012-06-29T16:55:07.488-04:00I Hate It<script src="http://debramartin.com/scripts/PopBox.js" type="text/javascript"></script> <!--
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onclick="PopInPlace( this,50,'PopBoxImageLarge');" />My little cropped jacket has been a learning experience. I started by redesigning one of my Bernina My Label patterns. I experimented with drafting a three piece sleeve from a two piece sleeve. Then I stitched a muslin and finally this jacket. There are several things I will do better next time. I will still wear it, but not as proudly as I had hoped. I enjoyed sewing it. The fabrics are all stretch fabrics and my Pfaff IDT really came in handy. I have been sewing with my Pfaff Creative Vision for a year and a half and I have not used the embroidery arm yet. I am really looking forward to incorporating machine embroidery in my future creations. I'm a bit disappointed, but it's late and tomorrow I'll feel better I am sure. I really wanted this jacket to be perfect...Debra Martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07503806859943136527noreply@blogger.com4