I tweaked the shoulder slope and restitched the darts. Now the suit dress looks a little better. I am going to leave the sleeves off, but I have decided that I do want the collar, so I have to move the zipper. The zipper in the center back was basted in just for fitting purposes. I do not want to have a zipper in the center back of the collar. Now that I have the side seams as I want them, I will pull that zipper out and stitch the center back seam. I will put an invisible zipper in the left side seam. The seam is curved and the fabric has a slight stretch to it, so I need to stabilize the seam allowances before I sew in the zipper.
I also have to adjust my facing pattern since I have altered the shoulder seam. This pattern did not come with lining or facing pieces. I drafted my own. It is really easy to do. Since BURDA patterns have no seam allowances, it was especially easy. Basically, all I have to do to make lining and facing pieces is duplicate the front and back pieces, draw a line where I want the facing and lining to meet, and cut the pieces apart.
In this picture, I have drafted just a facing. I taped the pattern pieces together at the shoulder, then covered them with architectural tracing paper. I outlined the pattern pieces at the armsyce and neckline and drafted a lower edge to make a one piece facing. The facing will be cut out with the center back on the straight grain fold.
I still have not decided if I am going to make a lining for this dress. It will depend on how low the neckline is once the collar is attached. If I have to wear a blouse or something underneath, I will want a lining to keep the gabardine from sticking to the blouse fabric. If the collar is modest enough, I may see if I have enough fabric to make a shrug to wear over it. I always need sleeves. I am always cold.
The fit is fabulous, and the belt really sets it off.
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