It's been a long, long time...

Hello World!

I have been quiet for many months, but I have not forgotten you. As a matter of fact, you have been on my mind more than ever. I read your blogs and your comments with great interest. You see, I have been learning about pattern making, grading, technical writing, fashion illustration, cad drawing, and running a small business. Can you guess why?


Did you guess that I decided to start an independent pattern company? If you did, you are correct! At first, I wanted to wait until I had a full collection of patterns to offer, but I am too excited to delay any longer. Soon, I will release my first patterns. Here are a few sneak preview illustrations:

What to do with this?

Fashionistas help!! This jacket needs something. I am glad I made this mock-up. I am not diggin' the look on me. It looks like it needs to be a little longer. I had an idea to add a zip on peplum, but I really like the idea of a cropped jacket. Maybe it just isn't fitted enough? Should I take a little ease out of the side seams and see if I like it? Or maybe tack some fabric along the bottom edge and see if the longer length helps? The back neckline is too low and too scooped as well. I feel my mojo slipping... I would rather be sewing spring dresses, but I don't want another UFO hanging around my sewing room. The pictures are cell phone pictures and not the best, but if you click them, they get bigger. What should I do with this?

Tweed Zipper Jacket Mock-up

I have been playing with an iPad app called Adobe Ideas. Above is a sketch I drew of the jacket mock-up for the tweed zip front jacket. I left the sleeves off, but I will be adding sleeves to test my pattern before I cut the Linton tweed. The app is a lot of fun. I can sit and draw pictures while I watch TV with my husband. Below are a few pictures of the real life mock-up on my dress form. The zipper is hand basted in. I will take it out when I am satisfied with the mock-up. The pictures expand when you mouse over them. (Someone asked how I do it. I use a JavaScript and some CSS coding. It doesn't work in google reader, though.) I am enjoying this project. I did some pattern editing, some draping, and some hand sewing so far. Maybe the mock-up will be another wearable muslin. Here's hoping...

My husband and I celebrated our anniversary this weekend. Here are a few parting shots from our wedding album.

Drafting the Zippered Jacket Pattern

Thanks to all who helped me choose which jacket to sew next. I started work on the zippered jacket this weekend. I decided to create my own pattern. First, I had to think about the fabric and the fit to determine what to do with the bust darts. The tweed is a loose weave with horizontal stripes of color and sequins, so I wanted a simple design. I like something with waist definition, so I decided on waist darts for shaping. I have a jacket pattern which fits me very well, but it has princess seams, so I needed to do some pattern manipulation.

I began with the BML belted jacket pattern which I used for this jacket. I cropped the pattern at the waist and taped the side front to the front along the upper part of the princess seam. Then I covered the pieces with tracing paper.

I traced the two pieces as one, converting the princess seam to a waist dart. I also redrew the neckline, using my french curve. For this pattern, I omitted the seam allowances. I find it easier to work with patterns when there are no seam allowances. I will add the seam allowances when I cut the fabric.

Here is what the half front looks like.

The jacket will have an asymmetrical front closure, so I will need to start with a full front pattern piece which I will later cut in two to make a left and a right side. Here I have folded the tracing paper along the center front line and traced the rest of the jacket front onto the folded tracing paper. I divided it by extending one of the dart legs up to the shoulder seam. (I later changed this when I determined where I wanted my neck opening.)

Next, I cut the new pattern pieces out, cutting the left and right apart along the dart leg and its extension.

Here are the two pieces. When I wear the jacket, I would like the zipper to appear to anyone who sees it to go from the top left toward the bottom right. I find that diagonal line to be more appealing than one which goes from top right toward bottom left. That means that from the wearer's point of reference, the zipper will be on the right hand side. Therefore, the larger front piece will be the FRONT LEFT. I always find this confusing and even though I may mark a pattern, I never trust it and I will always double check as I cut. I have learned not to bother marking the pieces. (Does anyone else do this? - second guess yourself to death?? I can't tell you how many pattern pieces I have with markings that are crossed out, changed, crossed out yet again, and changed back to the original markings. I drive myself crazy.)

Here is where I decided on the neckline and the collar. I went back and forth in my mind over having a wider neckline as in my drawing, or a smaller one. I opted for the smaller one with more coverage as I am always cold, and it will look nicer when layered. I drew a dotted line to indicate where the edge of the collar will fall. At this point, I noticed the front opening will not intersect the neckline. That needs to be fixed.

Here, I taped the fronts together and redrew the opening. I am not convinced I like it as much as my original idea with the wider neckline. Also, that diagonal line I had in my mind for the zipper is not going to work out. I think I need to let this marinate a little before I cut any fabric... I may redo it and go with my original sketch.

Which Jacket is Next?

I don't know about anyone else, but I can't watch TV with my husband without also doing something sewing related at the same time. I am either surfing the web to satisfy my voracious hunger for fashion images and sewing blogs or I am flipping through BURDA Style or Threads Magazine or like last night, planning what I want to sew. I bought this beautiful sequined Linton Tweed a while ago and I have been reluctant to sew it. My first idea was a cropped Chanel inspired jacket, but I was only lukewarm on the idea. I made a mock up and that is as far as I got with it. Then I got an idea to make a zippered jacket with a big fold-over collar trimmed with fringe. The other drawing was inspired by a hole in my wardrobe. I need a longer black jacket. I bought a fabulous cut of cashmere and it would be perfect for channel-stitching. Maybe I'll even add little black seed beads at the neckline. I have to make and test patterns, but I think I can use Bernina My Label software to draft something close for starters. Then I will make edits to add the style elements I want. I'll post all the details as I go.

But here is the real dilemma. Which one should I do first???

Some Things Just Need A Little Time...

Although I wish this jacket had turned out nicer, I guess it isn't so bad afterall. I like the way the fabrics coordinate with the silk shell I made to go with it. Both items were made with redesigned BML patterns. I have a pair of pants made from the same fabric I used for the olive colored piping and I am in the process of making a pair of pants from the same fabric I used for the binding, so I will have lots of options to make outfits with this jacket. I am in the process of rearranging my sewing room, and my dining room is now a disaster, but in time, it will also be better.

I Hate It

My little cropped jacket has been a learning experience. I started by redesigning one of my Bernina My Label patterns. I experimented with drafting a three piece sleeve from a two piece sleeve. Then I stitched a muslin and finally this jacket. There are several things I will do better next time. I will still wear it, but not as proudly as I had hoped. I enjoyed sewing it. The fabrics are all stretch fabrics and my Pfaff IDT really came in handy. I have been sewing with my Pfaff Creative Vision for a year and a half and I have not used the embroidery arm yet. I am really looking forward to incorporating machine embroidery in my future creations. I'm a bit disappointed, but it's late and tomorrow I'll feel better I am sure. I really wanted this jacket to be perfect...

The Silk Print Knit Shell

Here is my latest Bernina My Label success! I started with the tunic pattern. I used a half front on the fold, so I cut the pattern right down the center line. First, I redrafted the neckline and armscyes. Then I drew lines for the yoke and armscye bands and cut them off the pattern on both the front and back pieces. Next, I made four slashes in the front from the yoke seam line to the bust point. I closed the bust dart and let the slashes open. Then I taped tracing paper under the pattern to fill in the slashes. Finally, I redrew the yoke seam line straightening out the jaggies and added seam allowances to the yoke and the armscye bands. There is enough ease in the tunic design not to need a zipper or button closure. I used the yoke and armscye band pattern pieces to make facings. I cut fusible knit interfacing for the yoke and armscye bands. I did not have to finish any of the seams or the hem because the knit fabric does not ravel. For the hem, I just sewed three rows of straight stitches to add weight and make it look finished.

Fall - a time for new beginnings

Well last weekend I saw it - the first sign of autumn in New England. I was riding my motorcycle up route 100 in Vermont and there on the side of the road, I spotted the first yellow and almost orange leaves on a few trees. The return of the cooler air is always bittersweet for me. As the long, golden, carefree summer days come to a nostalgic end, the cool fresh crispness of fall brings with it new beginnings. I remember this time of year from my childhood - the smell of newly sharpened pencils and shiny wax crayons, new teachers and classmates, the crackle of new book bindings and the snap of binder rings closing though a new pack of blank loose leaf paper, a flashy new lunch box with matching thermos bottle proudly showcasing my favorite character that year, brand new episodes of my favorite TV shows, and my favorite of all the new things - new leather shoes and new clothes in my favorite fall colors.

As the old worn out summer clothes were thrown out or given away, the idea of a fresh new start always filled me with resolutions of getting perfect grades, having neater handwriting, keeping my book covers clean and fresh, and even getting along better with my little sister and brother. I have always loved getting brand new school clothes, and my Mom always saw to it that we started school with a new wardrobe, even though we had very little money.

The fall season has been my favorite fashion season for as long as I can remember, despite my passion for spring dresses and strappy sandals. Now that I have seen the yellow leaves, and it has been rainy and cold for a couple of days in a row, I have started dreaming about silk and tweed, wool and cashmere, suede and leather. My thoughts turn to big purses with shiny hardware, long leather boots with stack heels, chunky buttons, crystal zippers, pleated trim, velvet ribbon, plush scarves and wraps with fringe, huge sparkly baubles and bangles, buttery soft leather gloves, felted wool coats, capes and hats, oversized sunglasses, red lipstick and thick lashes. I find myself craving cappuccino and pumpkin pie...

I am so excited that my sewing has FINALLY gotten to a level where the things I make fit me well enough that I can focus on style instead of fit. I can't stop thinking about what to make! I have some gorgeous fabric in my stash that I have been afraid to cut. Now, I can't wait to stitch it up. In an attempt to formalize my fall wardrobe plan, I have sketched a couple of variations of the tailored shirt pattern included with My Label. I plan to make a woven silk print shell to wear under a jacket, a woven silk tailored shirt with a crystal zipper up the center, a stretch knit silk print wrap top, and a woven silk print blouse with pleated self fabric trim, as well as three more pairs of pants from wool crepe, stretch tropical wool, and a beautiful fine menswear pin stripe - all from my stash! CoLoR mE HaPpy!!

On another happy note, my daughter joined me for lunch today and complimented my outfit. When I told her I made the dress myself, she was delighted and asked me if I could make one for her as well. YES!! Life is good.

Cast On Roses

Here is a better picture of the cast on rose stitch. I used a single strand of DMC six strand cotton floss. I am still not ready to jump in and start embroidering the panels just yet. Since the embroidery will be positioned at my waist, I want the detail to be visible from 5 feet away. The single strand stitch out may be too small. I want to see what it looks like using two strands. I also need to settle on the color scheme of the embroidery. I am thinking of adding yellow detached chain stitch daisies with fuschia and purple seed bead accents. I don't want to get too complicated with the design as I will be stitching it twice - once for each panel - and the designs will need to mirror each other. I do hope after all of this decision making that I will be happy with the final dress! I hate when I put so much work into a project only to be disappointed with the results. It's a good thing I enjoy the process so much. It really would be torture otherwise.
On a more personal note, I have great news! My daughter has agreed to let me make her prom dress! This is HUGE! For the last ten years, she has not been interested in wearing anything made by Mom. I shortened and hemmed a bridesmaid dress last year for her for her to wear to a dance, and she was pleased with the results. She said she never wanted to wear the things I would make because she didn't like the style of any of the clothes I made. She also said she didn't want to stress me out. (Okay, I *have* had my sewing tantrums...) I suspect she just lacks confidence in my sewing skill. She sees what I make and thinks, "UM... yeah... I would NEVER wear that..." I am hopeful that this will be a positive experience for both of us.

Here are before and after pictures of the dress I hemmed. I showed her the original hem after she closely inspected the shortened dress and she was impressed that my work was better. What is it about teenagers? Why do they think their parents cannot do anything right?

Embroidery Design

I tried separating the plies of the wool yarn, but there were a couple of problems. First, even a single twisted strand was too thick and the stitching looked sloppy, and second, without the support of the other plies, the fibers would just pull away and the strand kept coming apart. So, I experimented with some of the leftover DMC Medici wool that I used on the blanket and made some sample stitch-outs of the Palestrina stitch that I like so much. It looked a little anemic with one ply, so I tried it with two and I liked it a bit more. I went on line and ordered some Appleton wool in varying shades of purple. In the meantime, I thought it a good idea to practice with some DMC cotton floss to perfect my stitching. As I stitched,I began to wonder why I didn't want to use the floss originally. I think I rememeber making a cross stitch design on a romper for my daughter when she was a baby and the color bled in the wash. Since this dress will be lovingly hand washed in Eucalan, I tested the DMC floss for colorfastness by rinsing a sample in some cold water and setting it by my fireplace to dry. No bleeding - even after I rolled it in white paper towels while it was wet! I did not use the Eucalan, though. I hope it doesn't make a difference. Now that I am typing this, I am thinking I should do a test with the Eucalan just to be safe. I have to say I really like the cotton floss and as luck would have it, I have lots of it, too! I think I am going to use cotton floss instead of wool. It looks really nice and it stitches up like a dream. I took another look through my A to Z book and found a cast on rose that I wanted to play with, so I practiced it a bit. Then I began to doodle on a trace out of the pattern piece and I came up with a design for the embroidery that I think satisfies me.

Overnight Inspiration

I have been stumped for a few days about how to embellish the side panels on this dress. It is on my mind as I fall asleep and still there when I wake up. This is not a bad thing. If I were not trying to resolve something sewing related, I would be focused on corporate level decisions which are beyond my level of authority at the company where I work, or federal politics or some other such issues over which I ultimately have minuscule or zero control, and I would be very frustrated and unhappy. For me, the return to sewing has been about focusing my attention on goals which I actually might achieve. It is very therapeutic to have something into which I can pour my loving energy and over which I alone have ultimate decision making power. So when I lie down to sleep at night, I wrap my thoughts around fabric and trims, fashion, style, fit, and design challenges related to making a dress I don't really need. It sounds trivial, but I need that triviality. If my current project turns out to be a disaster, nobody will die. I can roll over and get some sleep when I am tired of thinking about it. And the sleep is good sleep. Sometimes I wake up with a gift from my subconscious, an idea I had not thought of before.

Yesterday's gift was hand embroidery. If I use hand embroidery, I can use wool which is thick enough to show up on the raw silk fashion fabric. Also, it solves the problem of how to program the stitches to turn a non 90 degree corner. I can follow the outline of the panel on three sides instead of just one. But what stitch should I use? Can I still use beads? Will the beads I have picked out now be too small? Should I use floral motifs? Do you see how one little flash of inspiration leads to more decisions? I love it. Really, I do. It gives me some puzzle to figure out. I think I am only truly happy when I am solving puzzles.

Many years ago, I made this little wool lap blanket. All the embroidery was done by hand with strands of wool. I remember how satisfying it was to watch it progress. I had done cross stitch before and similarly enjoyed the process, but the wool blanket was more dimensional and the larger strands were more satisfying to work with as the design progressed faster. Plus, it used beads! The blanket was made with a kit from INSPIRATIONS magazine. If you have never seen this magazine, I caution you - you WILL want to take up hand needle work when you see the breathtakingly gorgeous photography of the stunning projects. There. Don't say I didn't warn you. Ever since I finished the blanket, I have wanted to do another wool embroidery project, but I wanted to design my own instead of following a kit. I got stalled and never figured out what I wanted to make. I think sometimes that good design is about managing limits. When I am faced with endless possibilities, I often feel my creativity is crippled by the lack of limits. I think the little side panels on this dress offer me the limits I need. I turned to my bookshelf to find a few examples of hand embroidered border stitches to use as inspiration. I found what I was looking for in one of my A to Z books. I love these books. They are spiral bound and full of well illustrated instructions. I almost don't even need to read the text.

I found my inspiration on page 81. While I like the motif, what inspires me is the stitches used. I like the rows of stem stitch and blanket stitch, and especially the Palestrina stitch worked around the outer edges of the petals. I think I want to experiment with a combination of these stitches to create a border. I hopped on my bike at lunch yesterday and rode to Michael's to have a look at what they offer for wool embroidery. The best I could do was skeins of wool/acrylic yarn. I am going to try to separate the plies and see how that works out for me. Maybe I will figure out a way to incorporate beads. That will be sweet.

I am tempted to start my next sewing project since the sewing part of making this dress is on hold until I embroider the side panels. I usually don't like to have more than one project going at a time. It makes my sewing room chaotic. But these hands gotta be sewing something or I get restless....