Vogue V1183

I went on sewcation last weekend! I made Vogue pattern V1183 designed by Kay Unger. I used my Bernina My Label princess dress pattern to help me fit a mock-up. I did a post about it here. My dress is not quite finished, but I am wearing it anyway.
I still want to custom fit the skirt. I think the darts are unnecessary, but it's too late to take them out, so, I will lengthen them instead. Also, the hip curve needs tweaking. I did not use the Bernina pattern to fit this portion of the dress. I only used it to make sure I would have enough fabric to cover my body. I think the hip curve on a fitted garment needs to be custom fit for each garment. I may decide to use my French curve to record my changes, but I am sure each new garment will require its own tweaking to adjust for fabric drape.
Most of my sewcation was spent doing hand work. I used tricot to line the bodice and finish the neckline and armscyes. I used machine stitching to thread mark the lining pieces along the front and back princess seam lines. Then I assembled the lining in three pieces, leaving the princess seams unstitched. I machine sewed the three pieces into the dress right-sides-together along the armscyes and the neckline. I pressed, graded and clipped the seam allowances and turned the three lining pieces to the inside. Next, I understitched the lining in place at the neck and armscyes using hand backstitches to tack the lining to just the seam allowances. Then I slipstitched the tricot lining together on the inside along the princess seams. I did this by folding one side under and butting the fold against the other seamline. The machine stitching made this easy since the fabric wants to fold around those threads. I left the bottom unattached for now. I will finish it with a ribbon and secure it with thread chains to the midriff seam allowances after my final alterations.
Next up is a matching jacket! I have done the mock up already. You can read about it here. I decided to use two fabrics for the trim, both of which I will have pants made from. One is a sand colored Italian tropical wool, and the other is the olive colored wool fabric used for these pants. I cut bias strips of the olive wool to use as flat piping, and I cut wider strips of the tropical wool to use as binding. I have already sewn the overarm seam on the sleeves. I inserted strips of the tropical wool in the seam. I am psyched that this jacket will match a dress and two pairs of pants when it is finished. I can't wait to post pictures! I really like what is happening to my sewing now that I have pattern drafting software that is working for me.

ETA (December 07, 2010): Click here for updated picture of the back view after alterations. 


  1. That looks fabulous! I wish I had your fitting skills, I did a muslin of this and it didn't even come close!

  2. Great fit! Where was your sewingcation?

  3. Just wanted to let you know that we really like your version of V1183 and have posted a link from the Vogue Patterns facebook page.